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Brows by Vanessa Tran · Complete Professional Reference · Color Chart · Blending Guide · Skin Tone · Density
Full Color Chart
All shades with 1.8% and 3% developer results across fine, medium, and full density brow hair.
Lamination opens the cuticle — meaning color absorbs faster and deeper than on untreated hair. Always drop to 1.8% developer post-lamination regardless of density, and reduce your processing time significantly. Fine/sparse brows: check at 4–5 min. Medium-full brows: 5–6 min max. Front of the brow only: 30–60 seconds. The open cuticle does the work — the developer doesn’t need to.
| Shade | Natural Hair Color | Density | 1.8% — Result | 3% — Result | Pro Tips |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dark Shades | |||||
#1 Deep BlackDeep Black | Raven black, dark brunette, cold ash blonde | Sparse–Full | 1.8% Soft charcoal-black; defined but not harsh. ⏱ 10–15 min 3% Deep cool brown-black. Cold base, blue-green core — not a true jet black. ⏱ 15–20 min | Fine: Use 1.8% only Medium: Either developer Full: 3% recommended | Cold base, blue-green core — reads as very dark cool brown, not true black. Best for lashes, darkening mixes, or deep cool complexions. Avoid alone on fair skin. |
#2 GraphiteGraphite | Ash blonde, grey, salt & pepper | Fine–Medium | 1.8% Ashy taupe-grey. Subtle, airy tint for grey or fair brows. ⏱ 8–12 min 3% Bold ashy charcoal. Cool-toned polished finish. ⏱ 15–20 min | Fine: 1.8% only Medium: 3% great on salt & pepper Full: Mix with Chestnut | Neutralises warm/yellow tones. Use alone on grey brows. Mix with Light Brown for ash blonde. Batch note: color can vary tube to tube — Graphite may read very ashy or more natural depending on production date. Always swatch a fresh tube before use on a client. |
#3 Blue BlackBlue Black | Raven/cool black hair, dark cool complexions | Medium–Full | 1.8% Deep navy-tinted black; polished and cool. ⏱ 10–15 min 3% Intense blue-black; striking cool-toned brows. ⏱ 15–20 min | Fine: Not recommended Medium: 1.8% only Full: 3% for bold result | Best for cool-undertone clients. Mix with Dark Brown to reduce blue and warm slightly. |
| Brown Shades | |||||
#4 ChestnutChestnut | Light brown, warm blonde, medium brown | Sparse–Medium | 1.8% Soft neutral mid-brown. Great for first-time clients. ⏱ 8–12 min 3% Rich defined neutral-cool brown. Full coverage. ⏱ 15–20 min | Fine: 1.8% at 8 min Medium: Either developer Full: 3% at 15–20 min | Most versatile all-rounder — cool base, light green core, no red tinge. Sits on the cooler side of neutral. Mix with Graphite for ashy or Red Chestnut for warmth. Batch note: can vary between warm and cool-reading depending on production date. Always swatch a fresh tube. |
#4.1 Red ChestnutRed Chestnut | Red/ginger, auburn, mahogany | Fine–Medium | 1.8% Warm copper-tinted brown. Delicate red tone. ⏱ 8–10 min 3% Fiery bold red-brown. Vivid warm intensity. ⏱ 15–20 min | Fine: 1.8% for rose-copper Medium: Both work Full: 3% with Brown #6 | Warm base, red-orange core — the only true warm shade in the range alongside #5. Works as a color corrector for green-based shades (#6, #7). Important: it’s a level 8 shade — adding it to a dark mix will lighten the result, not just warm it. The more you add, the lighter and warmer the outcome. |
#6 BrownBrown | Dark blonde, light–medium brown | Medium–Full | 1.8% Natural neutral mid-brown. Violet base — reads as deep chocolate on warm skin. ⏱ 10–14 min 3% Rich defined brown. Full coverage — deep chocolate finish. ⏱ 15–20 min | Fine: Blend with Light Brown Medium: Either developer Full: 3%; mix with Dark Brown | Violet core, neutral base — deep chocolate brown. Best on warm or olive skin. On fair skin, add 15–20% #4.1 Red Chestnut to warm and balance the result. Mix with #4.1 for warmth, or with #7 for depth. |
#7 Dark BrownDark Brown | Dark brunette, tanned or warm skin | Medium–Full | 1.8% Deep brown; defined but soft. May read slightly warm on some skin tones. ⏱ 10–15 min 3% Bold deep brown. Strong result — hair level 6, not near-black. ⏱ 15–20 min | Fine: Not ideal — use Chestnut Medium: 1.8% deep brown Full: 3% only | Cool base, yellow-green core — can read slightly warm on skin. Best on medium to deep skin tones. On fair or cool skin the yellow-green core may surface — add #2 Graphite to push cooler, or #4.1 Red Chestnut to warm and correct. Mix with Graphite for espresso. |
| Light Shades | |||||
#5 Light BrownLight Brown | Blonde, light blonde, platinum, very fine fair brows | Fine–Sparse | 1.8% Very soft golden-beige. Barely-there tint. ⏱ 6–10 min 3% Warm golden-brown. Visible definition. ⏱ 12–18 min | Fine: 1.8% at 6–8 min Medium: 3% with Chestnut Full: Blend with Chestnut | The blonde specialist. Add Graphite to cool yellow tone. Add Dark Brown drop-by-drop to deepen. |
Hair Density Guide
Developer choice and processing time should always be adjusted to match hair density.
Fine / Sparse
Thin individual hairs · Gaps visible · Over-plucked or naturally thin
Best choice for fine fair brows. Adds definition without weight.
Works on fine brown brows. Keep time short to avoid over-darkening.
For fine grey or ash-blonde brows — soft cool-toned definition.
Medium Density
Average hair thickness · Defined shape · Some gaps possible
Ideal for medium brows in most natural shades. Very versatile.
Good for medium-warm brown brows. 3% gives polished result.
Cool base, yellow-green core. Use on medium-dark skin tones. May read slightly warm — add #2 Graphite to push cooler if needed.
Full / Dense
Thick, coarse, or resistant hair · Full bushy brows
Best for dense dark brows. 3% with full time.
Excellent on thick dark brows. 3% penetrates coarse hair fully.
On thick brown or dark blonde brows. Blend with Dark Brown for depth.
Skin Tone Recommendations
Bronsun stains both brow hair and periorbital skin. Choose a shade that harmonises with the client's complexion.
Fair / Porcelain
Very light skin · Pink or neutral undertone
Light / Ivory
Light skin · Warm or neutral undertone
Medium / Olive
Beige to olive · Warm or yellow-green undertones
Dark / Deep
Deep warm or cool brown skin
Custom Blending Guide
All Bronsun shades can be mixed together before adding developer. Mix dye shades first, then add developer.
Dye pumps = Developer pumps. Always.
Soft Ash Blonde
For fair or blonde clients wanting cool, natural brows
3 parts #5 Light Brown : 1 part #2 Graphite
Golden Blonde
Warm natural depth for dark blonde to light brown clients
3 parts #5 Light Brown : 1 part #4 Chestnut
1.8% for a soft, natural finish. 3% for more visible definition.
Platinum or light blonde brows on clients with dark blonde or light brown head hair. Fills the gap between a barely-there blonde tint and a full warm-brown result. The Chestnut adds neutral depth without pulling warm or red — the result reads as a believable natural brow.
Natural Auburn
Rich warm red-brown — the redhead's perfect brow
2 parts #4.1 Red Chestnut : 1 part #4 Chestnut
Warm Brunette
Rich warm chocolate — natural depth with a golden undertone
3 parts #6 Brown : 1 part #4.1 Red Chestnut
Dark Brunette
Deep, rich brown — maximum depth without going black
1 part #6 Brown : 1 part #7 Dark Brown
1.8% for deep warm-neutral brown. 3% for maximum depth and definition. Note: #6 has a violet core and #7 has a yellow-green core — together they partially cancel, producing a grounded neutral-dark result. Add a dot of #4.1 Red Chestnut if client has fair skin or wants warmth.
Neutral Brown
Deep chocolate brown — no mixing required
#6 Brown alone — no blending needed.
1.8% for a soft natural finish. 3% for a rich, defined result.
Medium brown brow hair. Neutral to warm undertones. Clients wanting a deep chocolate brown. Note: #6 has a violet core — on warm or olive skin this reads as a rich natural brown. On very fair or cool skin, add 15–20% #4.1 Red Chestnut to balance.
Espresso / Cool Dark
Deep cool brown — the brunette alternative to black
3 parts #7 Dark Brown : 1 part #2 Graphite
Dark Chocolate Brown
Brown deepened and cooled by a touch of black — rich depth without going full black
4 parts #6 Brown : 1 part #1 Deep Black
1.8% for deep cool-toned brown. 3% for maximum depth and definition.
Dark brown brow hair. Medium to deep skin tones. Clients wanting rich depth without going full black. The Deep Black cools the brown down and deepens the colour.
✦ Color Matcher
Answer each question one at a time — get your exact Bronsun shade, developer %, timing, and mixing notes.
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This guide — including all content, color formulas, blending logic, the Color Matcher tool, design, layout, and written materials — is the exclusive intellectual property of Brows by Vanessa Tran.
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5. Professional Disclaimer
Always perform a patch test 48 hours prior to any chemical service. Color results vary based on individual hair porosity, texture, prior chemical history, and application technique.
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© 2026 Brows by Vanessa Tran · All Rights Reserved